Between hermitages, abbeys and frescoes The endless spirituality of Umbria – Corriere.it

within the Valnerina exist three abbeys of excellent non secular, historic and creative worth, all based by a bunch of Syrian hermits got here to Umbria between the fifth and sixth centuries: St. Peter in Valle it’s situated in Ferentillo; San Felice and Mauro in Santa Anatolia di Narco; Sant’Eutizio in Preci. This latter abbey has since suffered very severe injury earthquake 2016. The bell tower, the Sant’Eutizio grotto, the facade of the church and different elements of the monastery are misplaced, says the archaeologist and researcher Sebastiano Torlini. Nestled within the mountains between Spoleto and Norcia, the Valnerina continues to be a spot of meditation (and tranquility). Majestic abbeys and 100 hermitages, caves and small hermitages testify to 1 Spirituality by no means rests. They’re scattered alongside the river Nera (which provides the valley its identify). About twenty, that are among the many most vital for historic and non secular causes, are nonetheless visited by the trustworthy in the present day, says Torlini. A rustic wealthy in water the Valnerina (trout are farmed on the Nera and the waters feed the waterfall marble), of forests and turreted villages which have been introduced again to life and shine with the rebuilding after the earthquakes of the final thirty years. Locations of silence that invite prayer and writing for individuals who have by no means had literary ambitions.

Scabies and sturgeon, heresy and saffron

The stays of two hermits are stored within the crypt of the majestic Abbey of Castel San Felice, Felice and Mauro (the daddy). Coming from Syria, pushed by inside disagreements, they stopped in Umbria to commit themselves to hermit life and defeat the ferocious dragon that was ravaging the place with its nauseating breath. The triumph of Felice (who died in June 535) over the horrible beast carved in bas-relief on the Abbey facade. A metaphor for Catholicism’s victory over heresy. A metaphor for the reclamation of a swampy territory by a nucleus of Benedictine monks. The present church was inbuilt 1190, renovated a number of occasions and restored in 1922 within the Romanesque model (by the then monument preservation) and prolonged for the Anniversary 2000. Inside it preserves a fifteenth century fresco cycle and a secret: one supply the place a sturgeon swims. In accordance with legend, this water is a miracle, ladies would dip their kids in it to treatment them scabies. The small village of Castel San Felice sits elegantly and white on the hill. On the foot they cross the Outdated Railway Cycle Path with the Cycle path of the Nera (or Greenway del Nera). The primary follows a part of the route of the railway that, from 1926 to 1968, linked the Umbrian valley to the Valnerina, serving the mountain villages. The second faces south, as much as the Marmore waterfalls and the capital, Terni. You join with the Assisi-Spoleto cycle path by which SN365 challengeSluggish tourism tips aimed toward younger entrepreneurs. Luca and Marta Gianpiccolo They produce jams and syrups with a juicy style (the elderberry is great), which they promote within the household enterprise: Saffron and environment. They accumulate fragrant herbs and flowers from the fields and greens from the backyard, which they serve to prospects and bikers. The storage has given approach Valnerina biking station of which Luke is the undisputed king. He takes care of the rental and upkeep of MTBs (additionally electrical) in addition to guides (licensed by the Italian Biking Federation) for much less skilled vacationers.

American braggarts and flip flops

That waterfall marble it’s about thirty kilometers away. It may be reached by bike on the greenway that runs alongside the left financial institution of the Nera. The white highway, vast, in good situation with the plus of being 80% shaded by oaks and poplars. Alessandro del Gallo one of many SN365 circuit guides. He is aware of each side of the course and the character of those that put themselves to the check. The American they’re essentially the most disobedient. They arrive in flip-flops and – he says – overestimate their skills. When you possibly can’t take it anymore, cease kicking. With the intention to carry her again to the bottom, I’ve to drag her with the rope. The fascinating panorama. Like grapes on a crown, with a full of life mirror play, villages and hamlets with turrets line up alongside the Nera. Out of Sant’Anatolia di Narco and see Scheggino (The town is criss-crossed by canals like a bit Venice and is residence to a sprawling and bike-friendly resort Torre del Nera), from Scheggino it may be seen ceselli and so forth: Terria, Macenano, Ferentillo, Montefranco (earlier than the Arrone), Casteldilago, Collestatte and at last marble.

The Brancaleone Monastery

At Ferentillo exit the greenway to hitch the state highway and switch in direction of the Abbey of St. Peter in Valle. The highway climbs and performs with the facility of the E-MTB, from Eco to Sport. essentially the most stunning abbey in Umbria, says Sebastiano Torlini, creator of the information Abbey of San Pietro in Valle (Ciabochi Editore) devoted to this place of worship beloved by the Lombard dukes, lords of Spoleto. Some Roman sarcophagi include their stays. A legend says so Faroeld II obtained from Saint Peter orders to go to Valnerina to discovered an abbey in his honor the place he would meet Lazarus, a Syrian recluse like Felice and Mauro. To keep away from violent succession, the Lombard dukes started to withdraw into monastic life and the abbey grew to become the middle of their energy, explains Torlini. Its richness is revealed in a cycle of images of crucial of the twelfth century with tales from the Outdated and New Testaments. Perhaps studied by Giotto, inspiration for the frescoes of the Basilica of Assisi, says Torlini. Within the image that’s paying homage to theArrival of the Three Kings, for instance the final one is using a stomping horse, a state of affairs supposed to create a perspective impact. The monastery has hosted a number of movie units: Marcellino bread and wine, Don Matteo, The octopus and Mario Monicelli’s masterpiece Brancaleone’s military with Vittorio Gassmann, Catherine Spack and Gian Maria Volont. As we speak weddings and ceremonies happen right here, the point of interest of the charming Relais Lodge St. Peter in Valle.

Marmore, the lovers’ waterfall

The greenway ends on the Marmore Falls car parking zone. Along with his 165 meters among the many highest in Europe. It types on the confluence of the river Velino with the black and synthetic. Within the yr 271 BC The Romans started digging the canal that will have taken the water from the Rieti marsh to the sting of the Marmore cliff, the place it might have fallen with a spectacular fall. As we speak, the move of the waterfall is regulated by locks (a part of the water is used to generate hydroelectric energy), that are open at particular occasions to supply lovers a singular and romantic spectacle, attainable even at night time through the summer time months.

The holy water of Popoli

The vacationer who goals Norcia maybe saddened by the nonetheless seen scars left by the 2016 earthquake Basilica devoted to St. Benedict supported by scaffolding and the sky may be seen from the rose window. Within the metropolis, nevertheless, they arrive pellegrini firm a I stroll within the footsteps of the saint, 300 km by means of Umbria and Lazio to the border with Campania. A route in 16 phases that brings collectively the three predominant Benedictine websites: Norcia (the place the saint was born), Subiaco (the place he lived for greater than thirty years) e Monte Cassino (the place he wrote it Rule). It’s within the countryside a couple of kilometers from Norcia individuals, a couple of homes and a signpost: straight forward for the trail of San Benedetto. Between 65 steps on the left is a fountain with the holy water of Popoli. Welcome and have a very good journey.

September 13, 2022 (Change September 13, 2022 | 17:52)

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