Four denim trends for autumn-winter 2023

As part of the final episode of the Kingspins denim show held in Amsterdam from April 20-21, Denim Dudes owner Amy Leverton unveiled four denim trends that will mark the Fall/Winter 2023 season.

As soon as we entered the event, a selection of silhouettes showing every trend was presented in an exhibition. A new concept for the new edition of the show: this year, Kingpins invited some of its attendees to take part in the installation, giving them the opportunity to showcase the outfits they have created and developed.

The trends discovered by Amy Leverton reflect the post-pandemic mentality of our society. They evoke a desire to escape, a ‘post-apocalyptic’ optimism, and a desire to protect our planet.

(Left to right) Image: Vetements AW22, Isabel Marant AW22, Balenciaga AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures


This initial trend is closely linked to the growing popularity of the Balenciaga universe and develops as the boundaries between the real and digital worlds blur. It is based on the impact of the digital world on the physical world. The term “simulacrum” already embodies this concept, which is defined by the imitation of reality. This trend is emerging as some brands begin to take an interest in the possibilities that the digital world brings, through partnerships with digital tech players, “metamarketing” or the launch of collections in augmented reality or non-tradable tokens (NFT). .

Many of the silhouettes included in this trend seek to shield the body from the outside world: round shapes and technical clothing with exaggerated silhouettes show a form of defiance. The modernization of past styles is also quite present: there is a strong comeback in low-waisted jeans and acid wash techniques, which met with great success in the late 1990s and early 2000s.

The colors of this trend evolve between dark tones, which are a nod to the end of the world it evokes, and saturated colors such as electric blue and bright orange.

(Left to right) Image: Etro AW22, Christian Siriano AW22, Marni AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures


Similarly, the “outsiders” trend refers to post-apocalyptic themes. However, unlike a darker experience of the digital world, it finds its foundation in optimism and connection with nature. Craftsmanship, local production and techniques from agriculture are integral to this trend, favoring clothes that make sense to those who wear them.

This aesthetic is very similar to the “goblincore” trend seen last year, characterized by environmentally conscious clothing and rejection of capitalist systems.

This new trend pays special attention to the natural processing of products. This attention can be found in colors including lattice green and indigo hues. Contrasting hues with the presence of neon orange and bright yellow that breathe new life into the hippie culture.

(Left to right) Image: Blumarine AW22, Labrum London AW22, Matty Bovan AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures

Be curious

Responding to consumers’ need to fill the void created by the pandemic, this trend is rooted in the desire to escape with clothes that seem to reflect the emotions of those who wear them. Like the “dopamine dressing” trend (dressing all in colour), this trend evokes a lot of joy and vitality with assertive stylistic choices and bold color combinations.

This trend is partly inspired by the legacy of Virgil Abloh, who encourages young designers to have fun with fashion. Its influence can be seen in cartoon-inspired designs, hand-embroidered fabrics, upcycled textiles and psychedelic surfaces – all features epitomize the vitality of this trend.

This tendency is conducive to experimentation, which is the expression of one’s personality and creativity. Bright yellows, blues and oranges intertwine and offer many combination possibilities that will last all year.

(From left) Image: GCDS AW22, Mark Fast AW22, Molly Goddard AW22 – all courtesy of CatwalkPictures


Defined as one of the most commercial trends of the season, the ‘softness’ trend brings a more charitable approach to fashion and highlights companies with increased growth and products with low environmental impact. Authenticity of discourse is essential for this trend, which encourages brands to preserve ancestral knowledge, promote different cultures and traditions, protect both the planet and populations.

As the name suggests, the ‘softness’ trend revolves around a palette of pastel colors and autumn hues, and a particular interest in raw materials such as raw denim and natural dyes.

Like other trends, upcycling is one of its main features, but here the process is enhanced by sought-after techniques such as shibori (Japanese tie-and-dye technique) and hand embroidery. Its silhouettes, enveloping shapes, and updated work clothes that extend to the knee correspond to the calmness and serenity evoked by the trend.

This article was originally published on Translated and edited into French by Maxime Der Nahabédian.

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