Urwerk – UR-220 Red Gold Edition – Style and Trend

“…And in the box!” Today, the last representative of 220 collections gather at URWERK workshops. This UR-220 Rose Gold is sparkly and flamboyant. The case is forged from 4N gold and the textured strap is immaculate white. Definitely 80’s vibe.

UR-220 Edition Red Gold © Clock

Let’s set the stage. Florida. Palm trees stand out in a cloudless sky. Flamingos are roasted in the sun. Idyllic landscape. And then everything speeds up. Synthetic music imposes an intense tempo. The row was drawn at water level. We are in the marina, the sailboat is sparkling white; acts like a crocodile guard dog…

For ’80s fans, the references are clear: Sonny Crockett and Ricardo Tubbs; Miami vice. The golden skins, flawless suits and Pepsodent smiles of the heroic cops. Personification of success. Images that left their mark on the youth years of an entire generation. With two dominant colors: sparkling gold and pristine white. “Gold and white. It might seem like an impossible marriage,” says Martin Frei, artist and co-founder of URWERK. “But the combo resonates deep inside me like a happy memory. I see super cool heroes from my teenage years that we all want to be. They were beautiful, nothing resisted them. Dressed in clean, flying suits, Ray Ban Wayfarer 5022s on their noses, wavy wrists, and gold, they chased criminals. This was truly the iconic image of the 80s. And to end with a laugh: “And I was able to get these sunglasses from panoply. A must ! »

UR-220 Edition Red Gold

UR-220 Edition Red Gold © Clock

Felix Baumgartner insists on the contrast between timeless gold and the modernity of rubber: “Signing the end of a collection, this UR-220 Rose Gold is a powerful piece with a strong character. From the front, it plays in striking contrasts. A great way to mark spirits and end with a clear bias in this line, an unconditional wow! »

Let’s go back one last time to the features that made the 220 collection so successful.

control instruments

For once, let’s start with the back of the clock. The back of the UR-220 is the biggest witness of the evolution in the 200 module series and carries the Oil Change, which bears the traces of the URWERK watchmaking style. URWERK returns to his first love and re-establishes a movement runtime indicator years later. This knowledge, which is unique in its kind and has long been enriched models such as the UR-110, has undergone significant changes.

On the UR-220, the Oil Change takes the form of a digital gauge whose unit is the moon and displayed on two adjacent reels. The start of the counter is activated by the person using the watch. It should remove the protective pin and press the push button on the back of the UR-220. From this moment, the counters are activated and show the working time of the mechanism in months. After 39 months – 3 years 3 months – a service is recommended. At the end of this, the counter is reset and the pin is changed by URWERK teams. “It’s just the alignment of units, a digital counter that can be a cold measurement, but it’s actually a witness to the crop. Oil Change counts the hours the UR-220 spends on your wrist. URWERK co-founder Felix Baumgartner, by conscientiously bringing it up, makes all the energy you put into it visible.”

UR-220 Edition Red Gold

UR-220 Edition Red Gold © Clock

on the carousel

The UR-220 has a satellite imaging complication patented by URWERK. Indeed, circulating clocks are displayed on three rotating cubes. Each one in turn fits into a hollow minute hand. Together they travel 120 degrees along the timer, when the clock runs out the hand makes a big jump to the “0” index to place the next cube. This retrograde minute is definitely the most imposing minute in a wristwatch. All faces of the minute hand were opened to gain strength and speed.

UR-220 Edition Red Gold

UR-220 Edition Red Gold © Clock

This lightning-fast retrograde system relies on three key elements: The central axis ensures the excellent stability of the mechanism. The ruby ​​is the rock upon which the entire complication rests. A marine chronometer spiral-type cylindrical spring running along this axis generates the necessary tension for retrograde motion. A true overlay of the watch block, the atypical minute hand shows extraordinary measurements. Its ultra-precise cut has tolerances within one hundredth of a millimeter. This metal cladding has a total weight of 0.302g for dream measurements (8.03mm wide x 22.29mm long x 7.30mm high). Forged in aluminium, its perfect balance is achieved by a brass counterweight. A pair of star-shaped coaxial cams govern retrograde motion. It is the gearing and then its rotation that will determine the trajectory of the minute hand.

UR-220 Edition Red Gold

UR-220 Edition Red Gold © Clock

Other information on the dial is the indicator of the power reserve, which can be read from the two sub-dials. The autonomy of the movement is indicated by these two indicators of 24 hours each. During manual winding, the indicator on the right is the first to report the winding of the mainspring. When it reaches its maximum value, the left indicator will follow. Spreading over two “reservoirs”, this power reserve consists of 83 mechanical parts on its own, proof of the complexity of its manufacture.

detail art

Since no detail was overlooked here, the typography of the UR-220 indexes was completely redesigned by Martin Frei. The hour and minute numbers are even sharper.

UR-220 Edition Red Gold

UR-220 Edition Red Gold © Clock

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