younger man takes over the household restaurant

revealed on 14.08.2022 07:00

(Credit score: Sibele Negromonte/CB/DAPress)

Romao Gomes de Olinda Filho solely earned his father’s belief to salt his personal jerky when he was 18 years previous. And this occurred solely as a result of he “labored” in Olinda Comida Nordestina from the age of seven. He’s now 28 years previous and manages the kitchen of a standard restaurant opened by Patriarch Romao Olinda in 1987 in Taguatinga.

Furthermore: Roman Filho expanded the menu, which was restricted to dried meat. “Northeastern delicacies is simply too wealthy to serve only one dish,” the younger man justifies. First, baião de dois have been added in two variations: conventional and creamy, in addition to escondidinho de carne.

Nonetheless, the novelty mustn’t cease there. Quickly Roman intends to supply different dishes reminiscent of sarapatel, chambaril, buchada, rubakan and goat backbone. To do that, the chef remembered household recipes, researched and experimented till he achieved the proper style.

The son of immigrants from the northeast – his father is from Serra Negra, in Rio Grande do Norte, and his mom is from Ceara – Romao Filho, his brother and sister grew up at wealthy tables, at all times stuffed with delicacies typical of the area . “I nonetheless get the style of goat backbone and rubacan made with purple rice cooked in milk cream, black-eyed peas, shredded jerky and charcoal cheese,” remembers brasiliense.

A pioneer, Roman Senior adopted the trail of a number of brothers and left Serra Negra searching for a greater life. “Now we have uncles scattered throughout Brazil,” says Roman Filho. He arrived in Brasilia to work on the development of the Congress constructing. In consequence, he obtained a job within the canteen on the development website of the Senate. “That’s the place the love for meals comes from,” says the son.

Brother Romao, who additionally labored within the canteen, opened the Gibão restaurant in Taguatinga in 1981, which continues to be a landmark relating to jerky, and invited him to work with him. After a while in partnership, Roman determined to determine his personal home, additionally in Taguatinga. Thus, Olinda was born in 1987.

The patriarch and his spouse, Socorro Olinda, devoted themselves physique and soul to an enterprise that paid off: the Romão restaurant, additionally specializing in cured meats, in Vicente Pires. And similar to that, Roman Filho additionally took an interest within the household enterprise. “If I needed to see my father, I needed to go to a restaurant as a result of he lived there. My earliest reminiscences with him are right here, enjoying dominoes, enjoying playing cards and, in fact, within the kitchen,” he says.

Love for Northeastern delicacies

Of the three brothers, he was the one one excited about pots. A lot in order that after coming into enterprise faculty, he dropped out and enrolled in a gastronomy course. It was at the moment that Roman Filho determined to spend the season in São Paulo, attending to know eating places that, like his household, had a northeastern really feel. It was on these journeys that he met award-winning chef Rodrigo Oliveira of Mokoto. “He has a narrative much like mine, the son of northeastern mother and father who left Sertao and a lifetime of hardship searching for a greater life.”

The Brazilian native says he realized so much from Rodrigo Oliveira. “He has rural roots, however his eyes are fastened on the world. However I nonetheless must eat numerous flour to get again on my toes,” he laughs. One other chef who grew to become a reference for Roman Filho was Onildo Rocha from Paraiba, proprietor of the award-winning Cozinha Roccia restaurant situated in João Pessoa.

When he took over the kitchen at Olinda, little by little the younger artificial some modifications. It began with cuts used to make jerky. “I began utilizing a lizard with a tough prime. Our meat is salted with effective salt for 3 days. First, we clear the piece and put it within the salt with the fats up, within the second we take away the ensuing water and switch it over. , we pack and retailer,” he clarifies.

The addition of different northeastern dishes to the menu was imagined to happen in 2020, however the pandemic hit and plans needed to be postponed. Confronted with a well being disaster and lockdown, Olinda has invested closely in childbirth. “We’re fortunate as a result of jerky is a product that adapts very properly to the supply service. On the top of the pandemic, we needed to make 3,500 deliveries a month.”

Via fixed experimentation so as to add new recipes, Romao Filho wins his father’s belief and approval daily to run a enterprise with custom however with an eye fixed to the longer term.

meat pores and skin

Escondidinhos at Olinda restaurant in Taguatinga
Escondidinhos at Olinda restaurant in Taguatinga
(Photograph: Olinda Restaurant/Disclosure)

puree components
1 kg cassava
100 g butter
200 ml milk
100ml bitter cream
salt to style

The best way to make puree
Boil the cassava in water with a bit of salt till gentle. Then drain and let cool. Skip the cassava within the processor or puree. Put the pan on the hearth and add the butter.
and cassava. Combine every part, step by step including milk and cream. When it is scorching,
beat the puree with a mixer till easy and glossy. End by clicking on the salt.

filling components
500 g meat of your alternative (floor or small cubes)
onion to style
garlic to style
50 g butter
Chili pepper to style
salt to style
inexperienced onions to style

The best way to put together the stuffing
Fry the meat in butter. When it begins to brown, add the garlic and prepare dinner for a couple of minutes. Then add onion, salt and pepper. Let it prepare dinner for a couple of minutes. Deglaze the pan with a bit of water or beef broth. Add some onion and put aside.

ending dishes
When assembling, press the puree properly towards the filling to take away air between the 2 components. When you like, you may add mozzarella cheese on prime and place within the oven till the cheese is melted.


Instagram: @olindacomidanordestina

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